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Retrochallenge 2024

Started by JKnightandKARR, Oct 01, 2024, 09:26 PM

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JKnightandKARR

Was going todo programming this year, but after my initial registration came with issues, and something has happened to my Green 753 IDE DOM, going todo more repairs, and modifications this year.
-Fix the Green 753 drive
-Game pad with control issues
-Make battery pack / repair existing ones for the Green 753
-Create battery pack for rear of Z-Star
-Still wanna put IDE DOM in Z Star

JKnightandKARR

Adding redoing odd battery to list since i have spot welder now!  My keyboard sticks up a bit due to exhisting battery build.

JKnightandKARR

Ok, finally time to play around.  Couple of updates.

-1st and foremost, whatever happened to my Green 753, apparently was something with the BIOS, cause put the IDE DOM onto my desktop via 44pin to USB adapter, and no issues, saw files, scanned fine, so thought something happened with the system itself, but quick play on BIOS and it is working once again!

-I pulled the oddball battery using the 4 small cells, out of the Z-Star EX, and pulled it apart, cut all of the old tabs off, and attached new strips on that are bigger, and re-wrapped it, and now it sits in its home again.  A little tight, but fits.

-Thanks to Granz, sending me 4DOS, I can adjust my screen colors and have it the way I want.  For my Z-Star EX, I have made the screen Black with Green text, and struggled to start making a text based menu from Windows 3.11, filling text, trying to make a RobCo computer systemish from the Fallout universe, Vault 89 with me as the Overseer.

-Also for some reason, I have to use 2 different optical mice, my Acer brand one, is liked by the Z-Star, while the Green 753 only wants the old Logitech one. I outta see about a 2nd USB to PS/2 adapter.

-Sadly, just went to shut the Green 753 lid, and one side just snapped in half.... ssssooooo gotta figure that out...

JKnightandKARR

Update: No plastic repair parts available for the Green 753's hinge, so gotta fix exhisting.  Thinking stiff metal n Gorilla Glue/Epoxy or was suggested I try Fiberglass n Resin. So gotta think what works best.

JKnightandKARR

Well, tore into the G753 screen, and I HOPE I can fix this, I got some ideas, including using both super glue for initial repairs, and epoxy to try and make stronger, and use metal or fiberglass for the hinge area...  Now......  As for that sides, screw pass through.... that's going to be a total remake!





Chris Savage

I've spent the last 2+ years repairing old / obsolete industrial control systems. Most of the things I work on are 20 / 30 / 40 years old! It is common for the plastic enclosures to be broken as the old plastic is brittle. Many have plastic tabs that snap in to hold the enclosure together. The moment you press that tab to release it, it snaps right off! It is a sad fact when working on old plastic. Most of it becomes brittle and very easy to snap. That's not even to mention no schematics and parts that are no longer manufactured and unavailable. Those have to be salvaged from dead units, if available. One of the realities of obsolete, old-school technology.

        I'm only responsible for what I say, not what you understand.

JKnightandKARR

You are correct. In my case.... I closed the lid....

JKnightandKARR

#7
G753 Repair Update:
I picked up some 10 second setting Gorilla Super Glue for plastic repair.


This one is a 2 parter, one being the part with the bend and 2 screw holes with screws, and the other being the stand off without a screw.


Here's a stand off on the other side... not as easy to re-attach to find its original location and its a little more broken... 

The glue seams to be holding pretty quick and pretty well.  I put more glue on the sides of both stand offs.  I plan to use 2 part epoxy to reinforce them more, and need to reinforce the hinge cover area, and fix the screw pass through hole.

JKnightandKARR

Well... the stand off on the left has failed totally... so grind off n replace... i do have some wooden pegs, that I can just cut to length and drill for screws, got one of the brass threaded parts so can press that in, other might have bolt i can use to replace missing one, but original break spot holding strong!

Chris Savage

It may sound lazy, but I would have just left the lid open after that.  :P

        I'm only responsible for what I say, not what you understand.

JKnightandKARR

Sadly, i intend to use it portable, so that'd probly not work well. lol

JKnightandKARR

Well I found some acrylic rods at Hobby Lobby.  I am going to drill through one and cut to length for the failed repaired stand off, and for the screw pass through, little tricky, but I think I got it figured like this.  I am going to drill through the rod, then again a 2nd time, wider, for the screw recessed area.  Then I'll cut it to length using my drill press chuck as a makeshift lathe, and since my Traxxas Rustler transmission failure resulted in needing parts, which includes some very thin washers, which I'll use one on the pass through, to try and add some additional hold.  For now, this is all I got.

JKnightandKARR

#12
Started designing a battery pack for the Z-Star.  Besides holding batteries to power the unit, it has to have the following features:

-Plug directly into the DC barrel jack on the back of the unit for charging and powering the system, since it connects directly to the power supply terminals.
-Plug into the PS/2 port and adapt to USB port for my optical mouse.
-Plug into the 9-pin serial port, 25-pin parallel port and 15 pin VGA port, and extent the 9/25 pin ports to allow access, doubt will EVER use the VGA port.
-Provide a 5v supply for use with my OPL2LPT sound card.
-Use the 6 port screw holes to hold the pack to the system
-Hold battery charging/balance board.
-Power cells to probly be vertical to keep size smaller and close to the system for weight to be closer to the system.

I noticed the Z-Star used to have a cover over the 3 ports, PS/2 always uncovered, and obviously is recessed, so started there trying to make a part that will slide directly into and over the ports, while allowing access to ports and uses the 6 lugs to allow screw to hold onto the pack to the system.  The other side will need double sided tape to mount as there are no screw holes or other ports available other then the DC jack in the middle and PS/2 port.  If possible, will have to go by what the system uses vs power supply available, will have to get creative to make a way to measure whats actually used, and how much is available for battery charging.  If power allows, might do a double row of cells and 2 batt management boards for increased power.

So far I've got a 20mm x 130 mm * 5.5mm box I am working on with 3 holes for the ports, need to make a foam board template to fine tune my design.  Since my 3d printer has limited size, will have to create the housing in multiple parts.

JKnightandKARR

Really??..... even the metal insert broke for the failed stand off.... guess good i got tap n die sets huh?

JKnightandKARR

Got one acrylic rod drilled, cut and screw in it, and glued in place. Hope it holds!